Fashion Sophomore

The not-so-glamorous life of a fashion graduate

Clothing That Cares; H&M Lead Ethical Trend in Fast Fashion

A brief story I wrote for a journalism class assignment about a current trend. I chose Ethical Fashion as my trend…..

Clothing That Cares; H&M Lead Ethical Trend in Fast Fashion

H&M are joining the bandwagon of big name designers, such as Vivienne Westwood, in making the fashion industry kinder to its workers and the environment.  

International fashion powerhouse, H&M have recently announced they are opening two stores in Sydney before the end of the year. In previous years H&M have had their fair share of controversy with worker’s rights, even as recently as 2013 when workers at a Cambodian factory protested about poor wages. However, H&M have fought back back by launching the ‘H&M Conscious’ initiative. According to CEO Karl-Johan Persson, “We have set ourselves the challenge of ultimately making fashion sustainable and sustainability fashionable.” 

H&M are not alone in the move towards ethical fashion production. Stella McCartney, Vivienne Westwood and Karen  Walker have all become members of the Ethical Fashion Initiative which links designers with “marginalised artisans in East and West Africa, Haiti and the West Bank.”

The seven commitments of H&M are;

- Provide fashion for conscious consumers

- Choose and reward responsible partners
- Be ethical
- Be climate smart
- Reduce, reuse, recycle
- Use natural resources responsible
- Strengthen communities

As well as focusing on the production of their garments, H&M are giving shoppers the chance to make a difference by becoming the first fashion company to launch a global garment collection initiative. Donated garments fall into one of three categories; rewear, reuse or recycle.

Rewear – clothing that can be worn again will be sold as second hand clothes.

Reuse – old clothes and textiles will be turned into other products, such as cleaning cloths.

Recycle – everything else is turned into textile fibres, or other use such as insulation.

Oscar de la Renta… KING!

Is there anyone who does gowns like Oscar de la Renta? His recent spring 2015 collection, shown at New York Fashion Week, was gorgeous! I may be biased because I love floral, but these gowns are beautiful. The swinging skirts are delicate embroidery are the epitome of spring fashion.image

Oscar, we salute you.

Oscar de la Renta Spring 2015 is the personification of beauty! 😍😍😍

5 Things Fashion Students Need To Know About Sustainability

Another wonderful article from The Guardian.  Check out their other sustainable and ethical fashion stories at the Guardian Sustainable Business Partner Zone http://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/hm-partner-zone…
5 Things Fashion Students Need To Know About Sustainability
A recent online discussion offered some useful information about integrating sustainability into fashion degree programmes and how designers will shape the future of the industry

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Students at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, London. Photograph: Linda Nylind for the Guardian

Our recent live chat provided some wisdom for fashion students, faculty members and consumers alike looking to embed sustainability into education and design practises. Here are the top five things we learned.

1. Learning how to tell the sustainability story behind an item or collection is key

If a consumer can engage and empathise with the path that an item took - from conceptual design to pattern making to crafting - the more they’ll be intrigued. Weaving together a narrative about a sustainably designed and conceived garment is part of the task of becoming a designer. Since adding an ‘editorial’ section to their website, where the back story behind their products and designers is explored, rêve en vert has found more people are engaged on broader issues of sustainability.

Ditty agreed building narratives is especially important in dealing with stereotypes about sustainable fashion. “The story is so very important in engaging consumers in sustainability and inspiring behaviour change and busting those perceptions that sustainable fashion is ugly, shapeless hemp potato bag t-shirts.”

2. Major retailers need to collaborate with universities

Some schools, like Universidad de Bogotá Jorge Tadeo Lozano in Colombia make sure retailers and local fashion industry players are included in its fashion design programme. And retailers themselves, likerêve en vert, are keen to work with students, but as Natasha Tucker, co-owner of an online company that sells sustainable lines, believes, we need more mainstream companies need to engage. More initiatives like University of the Arts London’s FIREup programme, which unites academia with industry experts in order to share knowledge and build commercially viable businesses, could help.

Renee Cuocu, education for sustainability projects manager at the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at London College of Fashion, says: “Retailers are a really important link between the designer and customer, and it would be great to see more opportunities for students to engage with retailers with a stronger focus on sustainability.”

3. Fashion students need to take a systems-wide and multidisciplinary approach

Anna Fitzpatrick, who has worked on sustainable fashion projects at the Centre for Sustainable Fashion, felt it was important students were taught about labour and social issues in the wider supply chain. Fiona Dieffenbacher, BFA director, Fashion Design, at Parsons agreed:

"We need to take a holistic view and teach students to think about their place in this system: to critique it and hopefully contribute to changing it."

A multidisciplinary approach was emphasised as well, with Carolina Obregón referencing Universidad de Bogotá Jorge Tadeo Lozano where she is associate professor and programme coordinator for the design and fashion management bachelors programme. This programme assesses “…the vulnerability of the industry by engaging in research with a multidisciplinary approach, addressing how a designer is faced with economic, environmental and social challenges.”

Designers operating in an increasingly globalised world will find that taking a systems-wide and holistic approach will ensure they understand how to manage the processes and workstreams throughout their supply chains.

4. Sustainability is being included in curriculums but could be further integrated

An increasing number of schools are incorporating sustainability into their courses from the ground up, like Northumbria University and Pratt Institute in New York City. A recent graduate commented: “I have just graduated from Northumbria University in fashion design and marketing and they fully support and encourage a sustainable concept. The aim is to think of a concept for the future that will encourage a change in people’s perceptions and change the face of sustainable fashion.”

Others, such as Parsons, The New School for Design in New York City, identify sustainability as a core value of the institution and have for several years, hiring the first assistant professor of fashion and sustainability in 2009. Sarah Ditty, editor-in-chief of Ethical Fashion Forum’s SOURCE Intelligence highlighted some of those schools working to incorporate sustainability into their curricula, however, wasn’t prematurely optimistic. “I think on the whole, [sustainability] is still unfortunately an afterthought in the majority of schools, especially outside the UK,” she said.

5. Future designers will need to be on top of new innovations and sustainability trends

Two trends in particular emerged that aspiring designers should keep abreast of: upcycling and textile innovation. Finding ways to use up surplus materials will become increasingly valued and necessary, as resources like cotton become more scarce. And successful designers will need to follow the progress of innovation in material science, like 3D printing and new synthetic-natural hybrids.

"Technology is going to be a powerful force!" said Ditty.

The sustainable fashion hub is funded by H&M. All content is editorially independent except for pieces labelled advertisement feature. Find out more here.

H&M Garment Collection Initiative

Great to see a company like H&M making a change for the better. They are the first fashion company to launch a global garment collection initiative. Hopefully it’s the start of bigger and better things to come. Watch the quick little video in the link to learn a bit about it. 

http://about.hm.com/en/ImageGallery/landing-page.html/videos/CSR/HM_Garment_Collecting.mov.html

A little bit from my current assignment. Making magazine layouts.

As well as a love of all things fashion, I also have an obsession with baking. If I hadn’t studied Fashion Design and Business I would definitely have gone to cooking school to be a pastry chef. I love the idea that you can create something which makes people so happy just with simple ingredients and imagination. It’s the same reason I love fashion and sewing too!

Why I’m Not Excited About H&M’s Australian Launch

Not super recent, but a good read.

Why I’m Not Excited About H&M’s Australian Launch

By  7/4/14

As H&M opened the doors to its first Australian store in Melbourne over the weekend, fashion media and consumers alike were chomping at the bit for the retailer’s dirt-cheap ‘fast fashion’. Labelled by some as “the best thing to happen in Australia all year”, H&M’s 5000-square metre, three-level megastore in Melbourne’s GPO building houses over one million items of fashion, accessories and homewares, and all at prices so cheap that you needn’t think twice before buying.

And therein lies the problem. Well, one of the problems. H&M, with their $6.95 tanks and $12.95 jeans, encourage the kind of mindless consumerism that fast fashion  thrives off — buy cheap and buy lots. The proliferation of wallet-friendly clothes and accessories that are ‘designer-inspired’ (a lovely little euphemism for ‘shameless rip-off’) has led many to confuse this increasing disposability of fashion with ‘democratisation’.

But with cheap prices, the victor isn’t really the consumer — it’s the fast fashion empires. Quantity over quality is a horribly unsustainable approach, but it’s the reason why H&M Chairman Stefan Persson is making mad bank (est. $32.8 billion), and also why  most of our fast fashion purchases literally fall apart at the seams before even coming close to the 30th wear (the number recommended by sustainability journalist, Lucy Siegle).

Fast Fashion’s Hidden Costs

Fast fashion’s seductively low prices encourage us to buy things we don’t need (and sometimes don’t really want) with little regard for the enormous environmental and human costs of this rapid-fire supply chain that squeezes margin from those who are most vulnerable — garment workers in developing nations halfway across the world. H&M are estimated to produce 20-25% of their products in Bangladesh, making them the largest player in the country, and while they have gone some way to working towards a living wage (they aim to pay their workers a living wage by 2018), Labour Behind The Label — a UK-based collective of trade unions, charities and consumer organisations who work to support workers’ rights – argues that H&M’s projects “do not show evidence of delivering a living wage for workers any time soon” and that they have yet to put a figure on what the living wage actually is. H&M don’t own any of their own factories, and while they require their direct suppliers to sign a Code of Conduct and are subject to their Full Audit Program, they acknowledge that they don’t have direct contact with or influence over “second-tier” suppliers. It’s this lack of transparency in supply chains that leads to exploitation of workers, and in extreme cases, tragedies like Rana Plaza last April.

To be fair, though, as far as fast fashion empires go, H&M is not all evil. In fact, it was recently named as one of the ‘World’s Most Ethical Companies’ according to Ethisphere for its leadership in signing the Bangladeshi Accord on Fire and Building Safety, as well as its ‘Conscious Exclusive’ collection made from sustainable materials. It is also one of the world’s largest buyers of organic cotton. But these achievements are dwarfed by the sheer amount of resources used to make the estimated 550 million garments it sells each year.

HM9

H&M’s megastore in Melbourne houses over one million items of fashion, accessories and homewares.

Fast fashion is a huge drain on the environment — the textile industry is one of world’s largest users and polluters of water, thanks to the prevalence of cotton (a very thirsty plant grown in mostly dry regions like India, Mali and southern USA), as well as the many chemicals and dyes used in treating fabric. A single pair of jeans uses up to 5678 litres of water, and emits the same amount of carbon dioxide as driving 125km. No matter how many ‘conscious collections’ H&M produce, as long as they make more and more clothes, their impact on the environment is significant. As Siegle wrote in her analysis of H&M’s 2012 sustainability report, “Despite an understanding of all the pressures on Planet Earth sketched out in the report, there are no plans to scale back on ambition or indeed inventory.”

Besides the manufacturing costs of fast fashion, there is also the economic impact to local retailers and designers that will be felt as international fashion empires move in. Of course, healthy competition and a range of options is a great thing for the fashion customer, but Australian boutiques run the risk of being priced out of the market by H&M’s global buying power. Plus, the speed in which H&M can copy catwalk trends will drive sales away from Australian designers, many of whom are already flailing (think Ksubi, Lisa Ho, Kirrily Johnston and Alannah Hill to name a few).

While you may argue that there is no crossover between the H&M and high-end designer customer, the response to last week’s launch by the fashion media suggests otherwise. As I watched my Instagram feed swell with giddy images of the thousand-odd media, bloggers and celebrities that flocked to the Melbourne store for the big event, it was clear that the industry was drinking the H&M Kool Aid.

H&M are a well-oiled marketing machine, and the launch was major: 300 Sydney VIPs were flown down to Melbourne on a special flight, and indie-pop darlings Haim were brought in from Los Angeles to DJ the event. Luxury fashion titles like Vogue AustraliaElle and Harper’s Bazaar covered the event, despite H&M being far from the designer labels they usually endorse. On the eve of Australian Fashion Week, it was H&M — a Swedish fast fashion, mass-market retailer — that dominated the fashion pages, leaving local designers in the dark. Through a spectacular event and a generous media buy (just have a look at the banner ads bordering  this Vogue gallery), H&M has managed to spin fashion credibility out of thin air.

haim

Haim DJing at the local launch.

As H&M continues to feed our clothing addiction with some of the lowest prices this country has ever seen, the fast fashion machine grows ever more powerful. The race to the bottom speeds up, and all the while the fashion media sips on champers and toasts the arrival of another mass-market giant. Instead of critically examining the company’s effect on the retail and fashion industry, we are left with images of ‘media personalities’ getting drunk on H&M’s bar tab. The publicists won this round — the complete narrative of H&M has been obscured by beautiful people in shiny clothes.

There’s no doubt the retailer, like Topshop and Zara before it, will find massive success in the Australian market — we do love a bargain. But if you find yourself in line this week at the Melbourne store, among the thousands of other shoppers, please take a moment to think about the true cost of your $12.95 skinny jeans.

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Maddy Newman runs a fashion magazine for a major e-commerce company. Before that she produced a talk-back radio program for the over 65s. Consequently, she knows a lot about the Internet, shoes and Andre Rieu.


Read more at http://junkee.com/bursting-the-hm-bubble/32205#FMSwi3SwFtsRxMd2.99

Myer spring/summer 2015 launch.
Dress rehearsal, gift bags ready to go, and the beautiful Jennifer Hawkins wearing Alex Perry.

Myer Spring Summer 2015 Launch

I was lucky enough to work at both days of the Myer spring summer 2015 fashion launch. There are so many beautiful designs coming into stores, lovely pastels and florals. My favourites were definitely Alex Perry (does he ever put a foot wrong?!) and By Johnny. Both were beautiful!!

Help Ethical Clothing Australia to get back it’s funding!

Ethical Clothing Australia he lost its funding from the Australian Government. This organisation does great work to promote ethical fashion so please click on the link below and sign the letter to the government to bring back funding to ECA!
http://www.fairfashion.com.au/

Meet the Ladies

krochetkidsinterns:

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Meet: Aber Proscovia

What she likes about crocheting“I enjoy crocheting because it keeps me busy and helps me to no longer worry about my future.”

READ ON: krochetkids.org/beneficiaries/aber-proscovia

See the ladies who make the wonderful products from Krochet Kids. This is one of my favourite labels. They provide work, a liveable income and skills for women in Peru and Uganda. 

millymonster16 said: i want to study fashion and marketing but i also get worried. is it possible to get a career? its the only thing that doesn't sound terrible and i feel somewhat passionate about. im just worried its not a practical choice

Yes! Many people think that there is little career opportunity in fashion, but it is a multi billion dollar industry with so many different areas to go into from design to PR to marketing.
I think it is a good idea to study both fashion and marketing as this will give you a great set of skills to go into different areas (depending on what you’re interested in).
But the biggest thing to remember is that you must be passionate to succeed, work hard, take any internship opportunities that come your way and always network! As well as what you know, the fashion industry is very much about who you know.
I hope this helped. Good luck with your decision :)